Possible captions for this 2018 photo:
Nunsense
Nun Fun
Nuns Just Gotta Have Fun
High Five for the Tall Girl
Guy in the Blue Shirt
Bill
Possible captions for this 2018 photo:
Nunsense
Nun Fun
Nuns Just Gotta Have Fun
High Five for the Tall Girl
Guy in the Blue Shirt
Bill
This gorgeous and unusual building is one of the capolavori (masterworks) of renowned Italian starchitect Paolo Portoghese.
The article ran on April 26 and Bill had us out 4 days later in the Piazza Bologna/Nomentana area searching for the building, about which we knew little, not even the address nor what it looked like. After a few false starts (taking photos of buildings with barely a modern touch, thinking they might be the one), we discovered this magnificent structure tucked into an ordinary neighborhood, not too far from one of Rome the Second Time's 15 itineraries in our 2009 book. (Too bad we missed it then!)
Tucked into a street of ordinary palazzi |
We also missed Portoghese's passing only one month later, on May 30, 2023, at age 91. So consider this post an homage to him, whose buildings we've admired, among them the famous Rome mosque, which we wrote about 15 years ago, in the first year of this blog.
For security purposes, understandably, the embassy doesn't let one get close to the building. |
This gives you some sense of the difficulty in seeing the whole building. |
The palazzo - we now know - was built for a contractor's grandson in 1960, named Casa Papanice, and eventually passed into the hands of the Jordanian Embassy in Rome (whose shields you can see on the building exterior), which has kept it closed to the public, even walled off to the public, and, as Portoghese lamented, in a state of disrepair.
Another glimpse - but you have to know to look. |
Rusting walls |
The use of rounded, cantilevered, balconies against vertical striped and molded walls is highly distinctive, and the colored tiles playful.
Speaking of playful, we also didn't realize the palazzo (before the Jordanians) was featured in several films, including the unfortunately named 1970 "Pizza Triangle" (better in Italian - Dramma della gelosia or the alternative title, Jealousy, Italian Style) by Ettore Scola and starring Monica Vitti, Marcello Mastroianni, and Giancarlo Giannini. A still from the film accompanied the 2023 La Repubblica article.
And, as usual, we found a spot for coffee nearby - at the very friendly "Chill Out Cafe" on viale XXI Aprile, Just steps from via Nomentana.
As long as you are on viale XXI Aprile, walk a few steps and across the street to the immense Fascist-era housing block Palazzo Federici (by Mario De Renzi, 1931-37), where director Scola filmed one of his own masterworks, 1977's Una giornata particolare,with Mastroianni and Sophia Loren, set completely in that apartment block on the day in 1938 when Hitler visited Rome. (Film still below.)
Dianne"Thelma Senza Luise" Combination of a car and a scooter. By LAC 68, Nomentana station. |
A very long delivery bicycle, 2016 |
Now there's a load. 2013 |
For transporting children. Via del Corso. |
For transporting tired dogs |
This guy's delivering for Frutteria Aloise. The vehicle is a weird one--a scooter of sorts with a wide platform, small wheels, and no seat (and no helmet required). 2017. |
Looks like a waiter transporting garbage, but I'm open to other interpretations. 2015 |
Sicily. Man delivering melons in a crate. Photos of Toto and (apparently) JFK. 2016. |
via Quatro Venti, 2016 |
2016. Neo-futurism. Not in a gallery. |
Woman delivering the mail. San Paolo, Rome, 2016. |
Small yellow car. Dianne at right. 2016. |
Bill, wondering if it's safe to drive. 2010. Looks the door is made of canvas. |
2016 |
Big guy with small bike. 2016. |
Mondo Arancina. A 3-wheeler. The drawing on the side depicts an historic battle. |
Ladies' garments. 2016. |
Small delivery boy, 2016. Life is hard. |
Common sight: Woman with grocery shopping cart. 2016. |
2018 |
Tourists relaxing on their Segways, the Quirinale, 2016. |
A rental scooter. This one is a 3-wheeler (two in front). Safer, but not safe. |
A scary sight: tourists on red rental scooters, crossing the Ponte Sublicio, 2018. |
Rome's latest transport scourge is the E-scooter. |
Guy with dog collecting iron with cart in Pigneto. You can't do that with an e-scooter. |
Delivery guy on E-scooter |
E-scooters. Helmets were not required; they may be now. |
This is the second of two posts that evolved from a friend's request for suggestions of what to do around Piazza Navona and Campo de' Fiori. As we noted in the first post on Piazza Navona, she was clear that she and her companion would be in Rome only 3 days, had seen the big sights and did not want to go back to those this time, and they did not want to do much walking.
Note, Campo de’ Fiori and environs (the market – much more than flowers) is open only in the morning, Monday through Saturday).
Campo de' Fiori, in clean-up phase (2015) |
19. A statue of Giordano Bruno, the revolutionary monk burned at the stake in 1600, looms over the market in the middle of Campo de’ Fiori. We wrote about him here: https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2009/08/mixing-religion-and-politics-in-lively.html. Bruno's story is the door to many facets of Italian history, politics, and religion, which may be one reason our post has a lengthy and interesting comment by a reader (with the handle "Believer"). Just after we published the post in 2009, Ingrid Rowland's fascinating book on Bruno came out. https://press.uchicago.edu/ucp/books/book/chicago/G/bo8167222.html
20. Wine bar L’Angolo Divino enoteca vineria, just a few steps off the Campo, has some food, and is considered one of the better wine bars (all our Roman friends
like it). Web site in Italian: https://www.angolodivino.it/
21. Caffè Peru is a nice (not so fancy) wine bar, known for its great 10 euro aperitivo (lots to eat): https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2015/07/caffe-peru-time-for-aperitivo.html
- via di Monserrato. The photo is from 2016.
22. Palazzo Farnese was designed – or
re-designed - by Michelangelo. You can’t go in; it's the well-guarded French Embassy, unless you can find a tour - which we did once. Still, it's definitely worth looking at. This is a lovely piazza (if there aren't too many security vehicles parked all around), with classic use of ancient Roman bathtubs as fountains, and the dramatic, enormous Michelangelo overhanging eaves on the palazzo. Have a drink in the bar that takes in the whole piazza, and enjoy the Renaissance cityscape. (And ask someone about the connection to the Farnesina across the Tevere.)
23. Hungarian Academy on via Giulia – https://culture.hu/it/roma - is usually open 9-5 every weekday. It's one of the best of the foreign cultural academies, often with free, excellent art exhibits. Plus the academy occupies a Francesco Borromini structure built for the Falconieri family.
24. Galleria
Spada is a wonderful gallery that has another piece of Borrominiana - his “perspective” corridor. Open for tours (in English and French) daily except Tuesdays. https://galleriaspada.cultura.gov.it/en/tickets-and-info-2/
25. Il Goccetto (trans. "the little drop") is our favorite wine bar – via dei Banchi Vecchi.
Il Goccetto. The clientele, as usual, spilling onto the sidewalk and street. Inside, a chalkboard lists all the wines available by the glass. |
26. Turtle fountain - https://romethesecondtime.blogspot.com/2010/02/on-location-improving-on-turtle.html - Piazza Mattei. The turtles are by Gian Lorenzo Bernini - so you can get your fix of the Borromini/Bernini feud by hanging around this area. And, here's a romantic fable to add to the atmosphere (as if it needed anything).
27. Ghetto: The heart of it is this street, via di Portico d’Ottavia – look to Katie Parla for eating ideas – we’ve often gone to Giggetto at the end – because of ties to a friend of ours who lived upstairs. It bills itself as the server of the true Jewish artichoke (perhaps Dianne's favorite food of all time) since 1923. Incredible (and disturbing) free show in a tower right across from Giggetto - on concentration camps with Italian connections. This is the Museum of the Shoah, open Sunday through Friday, with shorter hours on Friday. The Synagogue is across the street and has tours – we’ve never been on one, but have been in the basement museum (hours change quite frequently with the seasons; basically open Sunday through Friday, with shorter hours on Friday) which is quite informative (we went for the first time last year).27A. Pasticceria Boccione is open only in mornings – get there to get a piece of “Jewish pizza” – kind of like fruitcake - https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/passticeria-boccione
Pasticceria Boccione |
28. Al Pompiere restaurant. We haven’t been there in years, but we always liked it – totally interior - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d866514-Reviews-Al_Pompiere_Ristorante_Roma-Rome_Lazio.html
29. Largo di Torre Argentina – supposedly where Julius Caesar was killed. It has informative panels, and now you can walk in it. It has a cat sanctuary that is fun to visit, and you can "foster" a cat if you are going to be in Rome for more than a few days.
30.
Feltrinelli book store – an international one with paper products and gifts
Campo de' Fiori at dawn, the statue of Giordano Bruno at center/right. Sometimes it's worth getting up early. Daybreak, June, 2015. |
While walking in Rome, don't neglect the garages--the places where Romans get their cars and scooters repaired, or washed. Unlike many businesses, they are usually open to public view from the street. And they are in a variety of ways revealing--revealing of the interests and inclinations of the proprietors, who are invariably men. (We've seen a lot of women doing physical work in Rome--sweeping the streets, collecting garbage, delivering mail--but we have yet to see a female mechanic.)
Rome's a soccer town, and city-center Romans tend to be fans of the AS Roma team.
Lots of AS Roma stuff, and a shout-out to the military, at left. |
More sedate. Just a Totti jersey. Tools organized. |
Sometimes you have to wonder how the mechanic can find anything. Not sure I would take my car here (below).
Garages represent the last bastion of sexism. Pin-ups are less common than they were, say, 20 years ago, but they're still around, here and there (far left and elsewhere in the photo below). This garage in the photo below (taken in 2018) is in Tiburtina. [And see the garage pin-ups Bill discovered in 2012 at the end of this post.]
Very organized, clean, highly decorated. |
Scooter repair shops often have a more subdued vibe:
This gommista (tire place) was closed when we went by, but the seranda was "revealing."
Another tire place had created a waiting area for customers. Very "Los Angeles" we thought.
It's not uncommon for auto repairs shops to do much of the work on the street. One could quibble about the use of "public property," but the activity is fun to watch.
Steps from Piazza dei Re di Roma |
This garage is interesting because of its location. It's cut into the Aurelian wall, in San Lorenzo. We saw it first on one of our "Wall Walks" in 2014, written up here.
And this garage is interesting because of what's inside and for sale: a 1965 1500L Fiat.
We'll close with a couple of car-wash places. The first is an Auto Lavaggio a Mano--a hand car wash, probably do-it-yourself (fai da te). The attraction here is a large picture of Jesus (and a smaller one upper right, not too prominent).
Christian car wash |
And finally, from avant-garde Pigneto, a suggestion of who might be washing your car (as long as it's a Mercedes).
Bill (who else?)
A PS - In 2012, we found a set of pinups in a garage, and Bill declared it was the only one he had found to that point. His post titled "Garage Art: the Pinup in Rome" is here.